A Note of Thanks to Some Very Special People

April 24th: I waited until I had finished all my travel posts to write this letter of thanks to my "host family" in Japan. I wanted to be sure I remembered every wonderful day, while it was still fresh in mind. Thank you letters always seem inadequate to express one's true feelings of appreciation, especially when there is so much for which to say "thank you." Nevertheless, I am going to try.

Mr. and Mrs. Chiba: (Yoshimasa-san and Fumi-san): Ten years ago when Kentaro returned home from staying with my family in the United States, you wrote and told me, "Just get your ticket to come over here and we will take care of the rest." Year after year at Christmas, Fumi-san would send me a beautiful card and gently remind me that you hoped to see me soon. Some years, I would write back and say, "Yes, I"ll be coming this year!" Then Life moved along, time passed, and I didn't come.

As you know, it wasn't until Kentaro wrote me this year and told me it had been ten years since his visit and "high time" I came to Japan, that I decided to just get my ticket and figure the rest out later. I certainly had no expectation that you would do anything, other than be glad to see me. You owed me nothing. Now that I've come, though, I am sorry I waited so long to reconnect with you and your wonderful family.

To my surprise and eternal gratitude, you planned my whole trip based upon your excellent recall of the things I loved about Japanese culture, and your guess of what I might like as a tourist. You made a special effort to get permission for me to see the incredible Imperial Villa at Katsura, and the Imperial Palace. You scheduled me for tours that gave me a good understanding of Japan's culture and history. And you chose a spectrum of hotels for me to stay at, that gave me a glimpse of the modern and ancient Japan. Yoshimasa-san, you even remembered that I was a Bruce Lee fan and suggested I visit Hong Kong while I was there. What a great idea that was.

Every place that you picked for me was perfect! From the Da-Ichi when I first arrived (I had so much fun pressing buttons to control everything in my room from the drapes to the alarm clock, once I figured out how to use them), to Hiiragiya Bekkan (where I awoke throughout the night to pinch myself and realize I was in such a gorgeous, authentic Japanese setting), to the Tokyo Bay Hotel Tokyu, where Kentaro and I watched the Disney fireworks from the Juan Sky Lounge on my last night in Japan, as well as every hotel in between. Perfect.

Had I been given the chance to choose anyone in the whole, wide world to be my hosts for my first visit to Japan, I could not have chosen better hosts, or friends, than you. It is easy to see why your children are such outstanding individuals. They get it from you.

Yoshimasa-san, thank you so much for your kindness and generosity. You have much depth within you, a true intellectual, expressed to me through your various acts of thoughtfulness and courtesy. Thank you for welcoming me with books on how to communicate in Japanese, in both Tokyo and Kyoto. (You knew I would need them!) Thank you for allowing me to share in your birthday celebration, and for accepting me, as a gregarious American who knew very little about Japanese culture, and probably made a million faux paux. Not to mention putting up with my loud yet enthusiastic singing during our family karaoke night, and even making a DVD of it for me! It was such a fun night, and one I will never forget.

As a special surprise the first night I came to the Chiba home for dinner, you showed me a DVD of Fumi-san demonstrating the tea ceremony at my house, ten years ago. Although you made me a copy of that DVD I am sad to say I have not been able to find it in my luggage. Nevertheless, I appreciate your making it for me. I keep hoping I will discover it tucked away in a side pocket.

Fumi-san, there is nobody in this whole world who could meet you and not love you. Your countless thoughtful acts (like that umbrella you gave me for Hong Kong, and making sure my slightest whim was satisfied for shopping, food, or activities) while I was with you, your patience, and obvious good humor created an atmosphere of happiness for all, wherever we went. You are so much fun! Thanks for your energy and your seemingly effortless ability to take in a situation and make sure things go smoothly for everyone. Thank you for caring for me when I felt under the weather, for putting up with my dumb jokes about bugs at the Imperial Palace (obviously I was delusional), and for trying to fill me in on some aspects of Japanese culture (like Geiko and Maiko) that I "might" not have known. Thanks for putting up with my incessant desire for cappuccino, and for allowing me to join your family in celebration of Yoshimasa-san's birthday. Thank you for the wonderful "Bon Voyage" lunch on the day I left, and for waiting to wave goodbye, after I finally got through the metal detector. Thank you for making me feel so loved and at home, halfway across the world from where I live.

I waited to unwrap the parting gifts you gave me until I got home. I love them! Thank you for the green tea (and the special green tea for the tea ceremony), the special wiping papers, the lovely Echizen Urushi box, and the delicate and beautiful chopsticks holder set. The Kyoyki company, who made the chopsticks holders, included a paper that said:

"Kiyomizuyaki is a traditional distinguished handicraft pottery of Japan. It is completely hand-done by the most outstanding artist who works extremely skillful and artistic. It shows their fertilized one thousand years of generation to generation-history and beauty of the dramatic four seasons of Japan. We hope you would love it as one of your treasures with special appreciation." I will love it as a special treasure, Fumi-san. Thank you.

Mari: If Jake Shimabukuro ever got to know you, I am afraid his fiance would be out of luck. He would definitely fall for you! Thanks so much for being there to welcome me the minute I set foot on Japanese soil, and for patiently try to explain your way through my ignorance of the Japanese language. Thanks for your beautiful smile, and bringing your "boyfriend" along, so that I got a chance to hear you play and sing with your sweet voice. I hope that one day I will come back to see you giving a performance. Thanks for laughing at my goofy jokes, and being so kind to me. You are lively and fun, like your Mom. Thanks for the saki (that I never got to try, thanks to the metal detectors), and for making my time in Japan so absolutely wonderful. Thank you for the beautiful scarf, that I wear almost every day. I love it!

(P.S. I looked up to see if it is appropriate to refer to you and Kentaro as "san," or not. It seems like it is okay, but if it is not please forgive me. I mean no offense, and I do have the highest respect for you both. I just think of you "Mari." Must be your Hawaiian roots, lol.)

Kentaro: It was a bright day when Christina Wardell called me up to tell me about my new exchange student (you!). I felt close to you when you were here, and when I saw you ten years later in Japan, it was like I'd just seen you yesterday. Although you said your English was not so good, you talk like a natural! You are a young man, and I know hanging around with your "host Mom" is probably not the coolest thing on your list of ways to have fun. But you made me feel like it was. Thank you for that.

Thank you for picking me up at the airport, where I suddenly realized I was in a country where I didn't know the language, and for taking care of everything. Thanks for taking me to see Dr. Emoto's office, and spending the cold day tramping through the rain and sleet with me. Thanks for showing me Uniqlo, and Evisu, and other cool places you knew I would like, once I opened my mind to them. Thanks for the jokes about the kcals. Thanks for remembering your brother and sis in America, and worrying that Alex would be concerned if I didn't call. Thanks for taking off work to spend time with me. Thank you for your thoughtful parting gifts; the CD's, the Hard Rock Tokyo shirt to add to my collection, the lovely scarf that you and Mari bought me. You know I love you like a son, Kentaro, and you are always welcome here. You are truly the best. Thanks for being so cool.

Tristan: Although we didn't get to spend a lot of time together, I really appreciated your thoughtfulness in worrying that I was sick and sending me medicine, and coming along on the last day to carry my huge suitcase in Kentaro's absence. Thanks for sharing some of your family's illustrious history with me, and your Uncle's book. You were Kentaro's best friend ten years ago and you still are today; it's easy to see why. Thanks for giving me the goodbye gifts, for me and my family, just as I was leaving to catch my plane. The kids really loved them! Alex wanted the sumo wrestler, and Alexis wanted both of the ninja guys (although she super liked the "black ninja"). You are smart and kind and I know you will go far in Life. Just don't go too far! I want to see you again. Peace.

I love you all, and I will never forget the incredible time I spent with you in Japan!

Back to Japan

April 8th: At 4:30 a.m., I get up to ensure that everything is ready to go for the limousine bus coming at 6:30 a.m. to take me to the airport. I'm headed back to Japan on an ANA (Asian National Airways) flight, and then tomorrow, back home.

By now it seems that I have become one of those people who drone on endlessly about their trips. I don't care. First of all, I've only gotten 3 comments on my travel posts (i.e., every post for the month of April), and all of them came from Asian porn sites. So there's no one to be offended. Second of all, I'm really writing these posts as a record, for me, of the best trip I've ever taken. Also, there are some people I love in Japan who might be reading this, and I want them to know how I experienced the trip they so beautifully planned for me.

On the flight back, I again watch "It's Complicated." It's funny, it's in my age group, and I love Meryl Streep's character. Also, I want to check out the clothes she's wearing so that I can emulate some of the styles. (A bit more laid back than my own.)

When I get off the flight, I spend 45 minutes in the immigration line with my backpack suitcase which is filled to the brim with my clothes, souvenirs, and a "ton" of jade stuff. I'm guessing it weighed 50 pounds, and it was a long wait in line due to the number of people entering the country. This was my first, and last, experience with a backpack. I immediately gave it to my son, Alex, when I got home. My kids grew up with backpacks. They're used to it.

Once I finally emerge from customs and immigration, I survey the crowd, looking for Kentaro. Unfortunately, there is a misunderstanding on my part. I forgot that Kentaro gave me the information about my last hotel, and told me he had to work today and couldn't be at the airport. So I get a chance to discover just how challenging it is to navigate in Japan on my own, without my friends' thoughtful assistance. After repeated requests for help one of the ANA staff members comes and shows me how to use the pay phone (the instructions are all in Japanese, and I don't have the right coins), then lets me use the company phone to call Fumi-san and find out the name of my hotel: Tokyo Bay Hotel Tokyu.

When Kentaro and Mari picked me up on March 28th, he told me that he had booked my last hotel near the Narita Airport, and also that it was near Disney Tokyo. When I tried to find a cab or bus to get to the hotel, a man in a suit with a luggage carrier asked if I needed a cab. I said yes, and he told me the cost to my hotel would be US$170. It seemed a lot for a hotel close by, but by that time I was stressed out and tired from lugging the backpack, so I let him escort me to the ATM, where I took out 20,000 yen. He then took my luggage out to his van and gestured for me to step inside.

We drove for a long time, about an hour. I was just wondering if I'd made a mistake, hopping into an unmarked van with a stranger, when we pulled up to the Tokyo Bay Hotel Tokyu in the Chiba prefecture. Given the distance, I understood why the trip cost so much. Although there were plenty of hotels right next to the airport, Kentaro later told me he felt they weren't good enough, and he didn't want my last night to be in a bad hotel. How thoughtful is that?

The hotel he picked was indeed beautiful. Inside, it looked like a fairyland, with a large structure in the middle resembling a carousel and ponds with stepping stones and other magical edifices inside, all in the Disney theme. I didn't have a camera and have searched on Google unsuccessfully to find pictures of the massive lobby. All I could find is the picture above.

Kentaro soon called my room shortly after I arrived, apologized for the misunderstanding at the airport (which was all my fault), and asked if I felt like having any company tonight. He works in nearby Roppongi. Wikipedia says Roppongi is a district of Minato, Tokyo, famous as home to the rich Roopongi Hills area area and an active night club scene. I remember one of my tour guides mentioning that it costs one million yen per month to rent a home in Roppongi.

Anyway, I told Ken sure I would be happy to see him. He was going to stop in after work at about 7:30 -8:00 p.m. My plane had landed at 3 p.m., and I got to the hotel around 6. I was beat. I had a meal in one of the hotel restaurants, took a quick bath, and was about to grab a nap when I got another call. Ken was there. It's worth missing a nap to see Ken, so I quickly got dressed and met him at the door.

I really appreciated Kentaro coming to see me after working all day. Ken is a salaried employee, which means that he is paid as if working from 9 to 6, regardless of how long he works. If his boss gives him an assignment at 5:30, he works until it's finished, even if that is 9 p.m. There really seems to be an incredible work ethic in Japan.

Ken told me there was a sky lounge in the hotel, and I asked Ken if he wanted to go up there for some champagne. We did, and shared a few splits of Moet while enjoying the view of Disney Tokyo and watching the buses with mouse-shaped windows drive by. At one point, there was an incredible fireworks display, and we had a perfect seat, right by the window.

Although there was a large stage in the Juan sky lounge, the place was empty when we were there. Every picture I've found on Google only shows people on the stage and not, as I had hoped, the lounge itself. We share three splits in total, and then our server came and gave us two gold plastic balls with "Moet" on them. They opened to reveal a little charm that said "Moet" and hooked on your glass. Although, as Ken remarked, the "jewel" on the charm was the "same quality as you could get at Claire's," (the American discount jewelry place for teens), still it was a nice little souvenir of my last evening in Japan.

Kentaro had to work the next day, so I wouldn't get to see him. Before he left, he gave me many gifts from him, Mari, and Fumi-san. Some I opened while he was there, and one of them was a beautiful scarf that he and Mari bought for me. I love it, and have worn it almost every day since coming home.

April 9th: I have my last breakfast in Japan, reading The Japan Times. Soon, Fumi-san, Mari, and Kentaro's friend Tristan come to travel with me to the airport. Again, as is always the case when my friends are around, I cannot so much as pick up a tiny bag. They insist on doing it for me (once the porter has released them to us). It's interesting that, at the Tokyo Bay Hotel Tokyu the porters are all girls, and small ones at that. I can tell you, the young lady who came to retrieve my luggage from the room and take it to the transport bus had her hands full, trying to get that massive blue suitcase on cart! After that, Tristan was the lucky one who got to carry it.

At the airport, we check in and get rid of the heaviest bag. The backpack was tucked safely inside it, awaiting its new owner. Fumi-san, clearly an expert at arranging enjoyable gatherings, surveys the restaurant options and explains the descriptions to me. There are pictures, but all the words are Japanese. We select a beautiful restaurant in the traditional Japanese style (yes! even at the airport), and enjoy a glass of tea while we await our food. As it happens, Fumi-san selected a fresh vegetables salad and delicious sesame soup. After trying it, I add a bowl of soup to my own meal.

Kentaro was texting Mari to ask what we were talking about, etc. Mari gave me two "juice boxes" of a brand of saki she said was very good, and Tristan gave me 3 keychains for myself and my kids. (Which they loved!)

We were all laughing and having a great time at lunch. Suddenly, we looked up and it was time to go! Kentaro called Mari and she put me on the phone just as I was gathering my things up. As soon as I heard Kentaro's voice, it dawned on me that I was leaving these wonderful people and I got choked up with emotion and started crying!

Then, I had to go as the boarding was very soon. Tristan, whose family lives in the Phillipines and calls Narita Airport his "second home," advised me that my gate was very near the metal detectors I was passing through. So I shouldn't have any trouble getting there in time.

At the metal detectors, my two juice boxes of saki and a tube of self-tanning lotion was disallowed, and so I had to leave them behind. This took awhile, to get everything else crammed in my bag, and now time was really running out. Finally, I was released and began hurrying down the hallway, looking for my gate.

I heard a lot of knocking on the glass wall above me, and finally looked up to see Fumi-san, Mari, and Tristan furiously waving at me. I furiously waved back, tried to tell Mari they'd taken my saki, then blew them a kiss and ran to my gate, just in time.

Then I found my aisle seat on the plane and made myself comfortable for the smooth and uneventful 13 hour flight home.

Hong Kong's Jade Market and the Bruce Lee Statue

April 7th: I began my Google search for the Bruce Lee statue in Hong Kong while eating breakfast. It took about 5 seconds to find out everything I needed. On Wikipedia, I read "Hong Kong gave honour to "Chinese film's brightest star of the century", when it unveiled a statue of the martial artist Bruce Lee."

"The Hong Kong memorial was made possible by fans of the actor, who died on July 20, 1973 at the age of 32. The Hong Kong-based Bruce Lee Club raised the $US100,000 for the statue after pleas to the government to honor the icon failed to produce anything. The 8-foot-2-inch (2.5 metre) bronze statue was erected, along the Avenue of Stars attraction near the waterfront at Tsim Sha Tsui. It shows a classic Lee poise, ready to strike, as in the 1972 hit movie Fist of Fury. "We want people to know about the legend of Bruce Lee." said Hew Kuan-yau, a member of the Bruce Lee club committee. The statue was unveiled by Bruce Lee's brother Robert on November 27, 2005 the 65th anniversary of Lee's birth."

I looked at the shot of that statue, towering over the waterfront on the Avenue of Stars, and determined I would find it before my short Hong Kong visit ended. However, I had some requests for jade from people back home, so I did a search for "cheapest place to buy jade in Hong Kong." Thus I found the famous Jade Market. (Gosh, I love Google. What did we do pre-Google? Suffer, I guess.) The description, by the Hong Kong Tourism Board, read:

"A visit to the Jade Market in Yau Ma Tei will provide an insight into something very important to Chinese people - Jade. The written character for jade means a combination of beauty and purity. The stone, in all its many hues and colours, is associated with long life and good health. It is smooth and cooling to the touch. Many people wear a jade bracelet to ward off all sorts of health hazards. Grandmothers routinely buy a piece of jade for newborns.

Located on Kansu and Battery streets, the Jade Market is a collection of around 400 stalls selling a wide range of jade pendants, rings, bracelets, carvings and ornaments. Open from 10am to 5pm, the market is also the main gathering place for buyers of this fine stone who today still communicate with secret hand signals when making a purchase.Nearby is Jade Street, located on Canton Road between Kansu Street and Jordan Road, where shops operate from every Monday to Saturday from 10am to 4pm. A giant jade stone weighing three tons has been placed at the junction of Canton Road and Jordan Road as a landmark. "

I also read up on what jade was the very best (I saw none of it at the jade market), and decided to go there first, so that I could have the rest of the afternoon to enjoy the grandeur of the Bruce Lee statue. I rode the elevator down to the lobby and asked the desk clerk for another little instruction card to hand the cab driver. I saw that I needn't have worried about finding the best place for jade. It was one of the check boxes on the card.

It was cloudy, windy, and raining as I left the hotel, so I brought the umbrella that Fumi-san had thoughtfully loaned me. I looked out the taxi window at the imposing tree-filled mountains, ringed with heavy clouds, and wondered if it was ever sunny in Hong Kong. Apparently it was, sometimes, since it was sunny in one of the photos of the Bruce Lee statue. But the weather I saw was more like that in Picture 1, above. What happened to the 75 degree temperatures predicted for my stay?

The cab driver dropped me off at the jade market, and I walked in. Except for the items sold, it looked a lot like a flea market I had visited in Florida, U.S. The Jade Market consists of row after row of tiny stalls, manned by the owner of the items offered. I went up to the first stall and began looking at the bracelets, statues, and necklaces he had for sale, to see if they fit the bill. He immediately started packing up everything I showed an interest in or had even picked up to examine. I told him no; I wanted to look at all the stalls before I bought.

He grabbed his calculator and showed me the price. When I said "No, I want to look around," he marked it down. I wondered why he was so intent on getting me to buy from him at that moment, but I soon found out that every one of the over 400 stalls had pretty much the same things for sale. He knew if he didn't grab me the first time, the odds of me making it back to his stall through all the other equally aggressive sellers, was pretty slim.

Nevertheless, I moved on without a purchase, resolved to look at everything before I bought. That lasted four stalls. Each and every seller practically assaults you if they either catch your eye or, god forbid, you show an interest in any item they have for sale. By stall number four I had figured out the way of the Jade Market, and the seller (who was slightly less aggressive than the rest) had some pretty lilac-colored bracelets for sale which she claimed was purple jade. Who knows? Anyway, I got what I think was a good deal on 12 bracelets.

After walking down all the aisles in the market, I noticed there were more across the street. It seems I had gone into the smaller section of the market; across the street there was much, much more. I checked some of them out, even bartered with a few of the dealers. For example, one woman tried to sell me a bracelet, showing me "HK$350" (Hong Kong dollars) on her calculator (about $45 US). I said no, walking away, and she lowered it to HK$260, then HK$100 (or $13 US). So I either did an extraordinary job of negotiating, or everything there is vastly overpriced from the start. I don't know. Anyway, the prices were a lot better than I saw in jewelry or mall souvenir stores, so I was happy.

When I returned home, I wished I had bought more from the Jade Market, as everybody would like a jade bracelet, it seems. However, the aggressive style of the sellers repelled me. I would have bought a lot more if I'd been able to examine the items without the fear that my slightest interest would result in the item being bagged up for sale and a calculator shoved in my face. I do understand that most of the sellers did not speak English, and let's face it: With over 400 stalls, competition is fierce, and price is the only difference. That style just doesn't happen to work for me.

By the time I left I was "jaded out," so I hailed a cab and pointed to the instructions the desk clerk had written down for the Bruce Lee statue. (Can't believe it wasn't a check box on the card.) Turns out the statue, on the Avenue of Stars, was within walking distance of the Hong Kong Cultural Centre which I'd visited the day before.

The driver let me out a ways from the statue, indicating by gestures that from here, I'd have to walk as it was not accessible by car. I headed out on foot in the rain, walking in the direction he'd pointed me, looking out across the water and straining my eyes to see the statue. Surely I should be able to see it from here? But no.

I arrived at the promenade along the beach (aka Avenue of Stars), and saw a familiar sight; Starbucks. Naturally, I stopped for a cappuccino, and asked them for directions. They told me I was about two minutes away. As I enjoyed my drink, and the warmth, I kept looking across the horizon. I imagined the statue of someone so important would be very large. You know, something like the Statue of Liberty. Why couldn't I see it?? I just didn't get it.

The rain and wind continued, blowing my umbrella inside out a number of times. It didn't help that I had packed only clothes for warm weather and was now freezing. Nevertheless, I was reportedly within minutes of seeing the statue built in honor of my hero, and I was not going to stop no matter how physically uncomfortable I was.

The wind whipped across my face and I was concerned that my umbrella was going to poke me in the eyes the next time it flipped inside out. But there is no stopping a true devotee. At last, I saw it. Sure enough, it was a very life-like image. It was also close to life-size. (As I re-read this post, however, I see that selective perception was at work. The description of the statue I found on Google clearly says "8-foot 2-inch." Such mundane details completely escaped me as I read, it seems, and all I saw was the picture of the statue and how tiny the people in it looked by comparison. Plus my own bias that the statue of such a great man would be huge.)

Wake up, Hong Kong! Why wouldn't you spend a million dollars building a staute to commemorate this favorite son who, 40 years after his death, is still viewed on YouTube millions of times? I happen to know there are people willing to travel to Hong Kong for the sole purpose of being close to the home of Bruce Lee.

Bruce Lee was a giant in many ways. Physically, however, he was only 5'7," one of the reasons he became my hero as I struggled with doubts about my own physical capabilities in karate class, fighting men twice my size. Seeing the statue, although a very good likeness, I was disappointed that it wasn't larger. And, not having a camera with me, I couldn't ask a passerby to take a picture of me next to it. Nor was I inclined to, as the inclement weather worsened and the rain began beating down in earnest.

Nevertheless, I'd completed my pilgrimage. I ran to the nearby mall I'd visited yesterday, to see if there was anything else I wanted to get for my daughter or myself at Uniqlo, then hopped in a cab and rode back to the hotel. After my workout, I consoled myself with another hour of reading Bruce Lee Lives! and watching my new DVD on Jeet Kune Do (featuring Bruce with one of his students), then packed to get ready for my departure at 6:30 a.m. the next day.

the 34th International Hong Kong Film Festival

April 6th: I sleep in a bit, which these days means getting up around 8 a.m. Then I order breakfast in my room (I usually don't, as I think it's overpriced. But the buffet here, from what I can see, is no comparison to the buffet in Japan, so now I'm a snob.) The room service breakfast is perfect, though. A pot of green tea, fresh fruit, apricot yogurt, carrot juice, a basket of 4 different sweet rolls, and a side order of cappuccino, with Splenda. Who could ask for more? (They do include a piece of Brie cheese, and some cold cuts which are pork. I don't eat the meat.)

Side note: In Japan, I couldn't find Splenda to save my life. Most places have either regular sugar or corn syrup. The Japan Starbucks has something called "Sugar Next," which is a very prmitive form of artificial sugar. With fake sugar almost non-existent and everyone using regular sugar, why is almost everyone in Japan slim?

I take my time getting dressed, and my watch is still on Japanese time, so when I think it's 9, it's really 8. That "gives" me an extra hour. I check at the front desk about the location of the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, where the 34th International Hong Kong Film Festival is being held. For tourists like me who don't speak Cantonese, they give you a card that basically says "Driver, please take me to..."and check the appropriate box. Then they escort you to a taxi, hand the driver the card, and you hop in the back, like an obedient child, and ride silently to your destination. Which is just fine with me.

The Hong Kong Cultural Centre is at 10 Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong, right on the water. Started in 1984 and completed in 1989, it was founded by the former Urban Council and, after 2000, is administered by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department of Hong Kong Government. It is a place for a wide variety of cultural performances. It also has a very cool, raised platform right on the pier, which affords you a fantastic view of the harbor and the buildings on the other side.

The Concert Hall, with 2,019 seats, is an oval two-tiered auditorium finished with high quality oak, and includes an adjustable acoustic canopy and curtains. It is the home of the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra and houses an 8,000-pipe pipe organ, the largest in Asia. The Grand Theatre, with 1,734 seats in three tiers, was designed for large scale opera, ballet, and musicals. The Hong Kong Film Award presentation ceremony also takes place in there. The Studio Theatre, with 300 to 496 seats depending upon the set-up, can accommodate smaller-scale theatre and performance works. Then, of course, there's the Exhibition Gallery: 4 foyer exhibition areas, 11 rehearsal and practice rooms.

It short, it's very large. I can't figure out which part features the Film Festival, so I ask someone standing in front of the building. Something I've noticed about native speakers, answering questions asked by tourists who don't speak the language. You get an answer, but since they don't really understand you any better than you understand the language, it's rarely an accurate one. (Like when I was at Itoya paper store in the Ginza District in Japan. I was sent to every floor in the nine story building, until I finally happened to find what I was looking for, in the basement.)

It's the same here. The person I asked sent me in the wrong direction, but some fellow tourists who I believe were Australian came over and steered me right. This being the last day, I don't want to miss a minute! My hope is that I will get to watch single every one of the 4 and 1/2 movies that Bruce Lee made. (The last that came out, Game of Death, was finished by a double. To me, except for the scenes where Bruce Lee fights Kareem Abdul Jabbar, Dan Inosanto and others in the Tower of Death, that doesn't count as a Bruce Lee movie. They made his character into someone I am sure Bruce Lee would not have played. But, I digress.)

My hopes were quickly dashed when I found the exhibit, however, as they were no longer showing his movies at the Festival. I had no interest in seeing any other movies, so I spent a couple of wonderful hours looking at the exhibits in minute detail. There was a pair of sunglasses that he wore, the famous yellow suit from Game of Death (copied for Uma Thurman in "Kill Bill"), pictures of Bruce with his wife and children, movie posters (I happen to have two collector's item movie posters from two of my favorite movies of his), clothes he wore, etc.

For me, it was an emotional experience to view even this relatively small collection of Bruce Lee memorabilia generously provided by his family. When I finally finished my scrutiny of every poster, artifact, and writing, I went to do what I love best; buy something to commemorate the event. I saw only one small table where they were selling anything that looked like a souvenir. It turned out to be the book, Bruce Lee Lives! released by his wife and daughter in honor of what would have been his 70th birthday. It's a wonderful book. But I can tell you, whoever planned this exhibition was clearly not an American.

Otherwise, they would have had a plethora of items for sentimental visiters to purchase. One thing we Americans know how to do is sell every item under the sun that is even remotely related to the subject of interest. Like T-shirts, keychains, every one of his training books, DVD's, and so forth. Geez, what a marketing opportunity lost! Everyone who was at the exhibition was having their picture taken in front of the exhibit (except me, of course, since I gave Kentaro back his camera). They were standing in front of the exhibits for long periods of time, just like me, scrutinizing every picture, every word. One would think that the promoters would understand just how intensely devoted Bruce Lee's fans really are. Huge opportunity, missed!! But, so it is.

Well, reading the book at the nearby Starbucks only whetted my appetite for more Bruce Lee stuff. Besides, here I was in Hong Kong, the only place the Hong Kong Legends version of his movies was supposed to be available. So, where was it??

I went back to the exhibition and the very nice young lady at the small table who was selling the Bruce Lee books. I asked her, where can I get Bruce Lee movies? She was kind enough to write out the address, phone number, and a little map of Hong Kong Records at nearby Harbor City Shopping Mall. Luckily, it was close enough to walk and so I did, following her little map and asking instructions along the way at various stores.

I went past Chanel, Hermes, even Coach, as I persisted on my search. I was accosted by Indian tailors who insisted I must need clothes made. But I resisted them all and continued on my mission, finally finding the record store, seemingly dead center of this one of many shopping malls crowded together in the area.

I was pointed in the right direction for Bruce Lee movies (luckily, Bruce Lee is a universal term that doesn't require fluency in Cantonese). I quickly bought the four available DVDs, which were documentaries or home footage of Bruce demonstrating his art of Jeet Kune Do. I even found the Hong Kong Legends version, containing all 5 movies plus extra footage for HK$390 ($50 U.S.).

Before coming to the Orient I had done a little research on Bruce Lee movies. I found out there was a Hong Kong Legends version of all the movies that not only contained additional footage, but also had Bruce Lee speaking instead of the lame British/American voice they have in all my copies of his movies. I know the script well enough that I could handle watching it in Cantonese, and I wanted to hear his voice instead of the substitute. But it said the DVDs required a special type of DVD player not available in the U.S. So I asked the clerk about it, he checked the back, and said yes, it was incompatible with U.S. DVD players. I tried to found out where I could get the appropriate DVD player but the language barrier proved too much.

By then, I'd spent over an hour and a half just finding the DVD's, and I was wondering if I could fit a DVD player in my overstuffed suitcase, even if I did manage to find the store. Then, I thought about the difference in the type of power source (i.e., the outlets needed) in each country, breathed a sigh of disappointment and decided to pass on the Hong Kong Legends package.

As I wound my way out of the mall (which was connected to another mall, and another in a seemingly endless maze), I happened upon Uniqlo, a store Kentaro introduced me to in Japan. A kind of Forever 21 or Wet Seal, it offers stylish clothes for low prices. Since I left my coat in my large suitcase, back in Japan, it was a bit cold walking around Hong Kong without one. It was supposed to be in the high 70's during my visit, but every day was dawning cold, cloudy, and rainy. So I picked up couple of light sweaters with an Oriental flair, then found my way out onto the street, grabbed a cab and headed back to the hotel (using my handy instruction card from the hotel clerk).

I'm always a bit slow to catch on to trends (for example, I didn't become a Bruce Lee fan until the late '90's, long after his death), and when Kentaro repeatedly mentioned Uniqlo to me, I was only mildly interested. There are no logos on the clothes (a must for chic in America!), and there was so much to see there I was overwhelmed. Now that I'm back home, I'm wishing I'd bought more, and there is currently only one Uniqlo in America: In Soho, New York.

Anyway, back at the hotel I went and worked out for an hour prior to poring over my new Bruce Lee book. After all, I am a disciplined individual and a grown-up, right? The minute I finished, however, I went back to the room, changed, and went two floors down to the Tin Tin Lounge for a glass of champagne and a chance to savor my treasure.

As it turned out, it was 2 for 1 time at the Tin Tin, so one glass of champagne developed into two glasses. I was already moist eyed, reading over essays about the man I admire so much. The champagne only enhanced my sentimentality, I am sure. But for me, it was a magic couple of hours I spent there before dinner. Lost in my own little world of Bruce Lee, reading different essays about him (half the book is English, the other I believe is Cantonese, but I'm not sure). In Hong Kong, however, Bruce Lee is one of the most universally admired men in the world. So everyone there understood my devotion, and in fact turned up the light over my little table in the dimly lit room, making sure I wouldn't miss an exciting word.

To many (me included), going to a bar or lounge and having a drink is something done with friends and usually means lots of talking, laughing, and dancing. But my memory of that late afternoon on 6 April 2010 at the Tin Tin Lounge in Hong Kong, doing nothing but silently reading a book, is an exquisite one that I will always treasure. Simple things really are the best.

Hong Kong Adventure

April 5th: I'm on the ANA (Asian National Airways) plane to Hong Kong, a 4 hour flight. Unable to sleep, I take advantage of the extensive movie selection and watch "It's Complicated," a great 50-something movie starring Meryl Streep, Alec Baldwin, and Steve Martin. Upon landing, I stop at the Hyatt Regency help desk at the airport and am taken to the taxi stand. They tell the driver where to take me; the Hyatt Regency Sha Tin Hotel in the New Territories, and off I go.

Upon checking in, I can see that I've picked a great spot. This is the sole hotel I've arranged for on my own (the rest having been completely taken care of by Kentaro and his wonderful family), and I must say I've made a great choice. My room 526, happens to be on the same floor as the Melo Spa. So on the spur of the moment I stop in the spa and schedule a 1 1/2 hour facial, and a 1 hour foot massage.

Then I head for the fitness center, since I haven't done any weight training for a whole week. Kentaro offered to let me take their camera with me, but I declined. Wish I hadn't! The fitness center itself is pretty typical, though large and well-equipped. It's the view I wish I had a shot of. The long glass outer wall gives you a breathtaking view of a large mountain with a waterfall flowing from its side in one spot. Below this, you can see the gorgeous deep blue of the Hyatt pool, the sea-green contrast of a large round fish pond next to it, and off to the back, steam from the bubbling hot tub. After a one hour workout, I go back to the room and clean up, then take the elevator down to the dinner buffet and a glass of Vueve.

I don't know if this is a trend I've missed in the U.S., but the modern hotels in Asia all seem to require that you put your key card up to a reader to use the elevator. Probably a safety feature. Anyway, it can get a bit cumbersome, as you need to pull the key out and press it against the reader any time you want to go up or down. Otherwise, you're going nowhere!

Feeling totally relaxed after my workout and dinner, I go back up to the fifth floor for my appointments at the Melo Spa. It's pretty neat. You get your own private spa room for your treatment, complete with hot tub and a terrace to go out and enjoy the great view (the same one you get to see in the fitness center). After this, a blissful fatigue sets in and I return to my room for a rest.

As you can see from the pictures (1 above, and left), I have a beautiful room. It overlooks Victoria Harbour and, due to the glass wall between the bathing and sleeping area, looks very large, spacious, and modern. In Asia the custom is to first take a shower, then soak luxuriously in a large, deep tub. Usually the two are separate, as in my room. I've booked three nights here, to return to Japan on the 8th at about 6 a.m. So I really don't have much time in Hong Kong. But that is okay. I only came here for one reason. Bruce Lee.

Yes, that's right. Bruce Lee. The man who has been my hero since my karate days back in the late '90's. I discovered him as I tried to come to grips with my feelings about having to fight every person in the club (including burly high school football players and other men). Bruised and fearful, I needed a hero who could convince me that small did not mean a lack of power. And, in Bruce Lee, I found him! 5'7" and only 135 pounds, he was the most perfect physical specimen I ever saw, with the fastest reflexes and incredible ("real world") power. Not to mention being extraordinarily good-looking.

I remember when I still used to practice criminal law, I would go down to Recorder's Court in Detroit and pull out Bruce Lee's book, The Tao of Jeet Kune Do. I'd sit and read it in the courtroom while waiting for my case to be called. From this book I discovered that there was much more to Bruce Lee than a "merely" being the best martial artist who ever lived. He was also a deep and intelligent zen philosopher.

In fact, I credit Lee with being the catalyst for the start of my own spiritual journey. I remember feeling an inexplicable thrill of inner comprehension the first time I read his words, such as "Wisdom does not consist of trying to wrest the good from the evil, but rather in learning to "ride" them, as a cork adapts itself to the crests and troughs of the waves." Or, "The perfect way is only difficult for those who pick and choose. Do not like, do not dislike. All will then be clear."

Wow. For someone who came from a Christian background, such words were completely beyond my ken. Since my early Bruce Lee days, when I sat in my gazebo, reading his training books and practicing finger jabs on paper targets, or punching a small ball on a string to train my response reflexes, I have been unabashedly a devoted fan. My former husband used to say, "You're in love with Bruce Lee." He was right. And I still am.

Kentaro's Father remembered this from their trip to America ten years ago. (When I first met Kentaro, I had hoped he could tell me more about the way of Zen. However, he was more interested in Western ways during his time in the U.S., and said he didn't know much about Zen.) But his Father did, and sent me books about it. And when I planned my trip to Japan this spring, Yoshimasa-san remembered, and suggested I include a trip to Hong Kong, since I was in the neighborhood.

Now I was here. And with only two full days in Hong Kong to see what I could see about Bruce Lee, there was no time to loose. Thank God for Google! You can become an expert about an area very quickly. For example, I learned that Bruce Lee's former home in Hong Kong was now an "hourly love motel." (Decided not to go there.)

And, I learned that the first Bruce Lee Exhibition had just been unveiled on 21 March 2010 by his wife, Linda, and daughter, Shannon Lee, at the 34th Hong Kong International Film Festival (see picture above). As luck would have it, the very last day for that event was April 6th, my first full day in Hong Kong. I decided that would be my first destination in the morning. And before I left, I would make sure to see the famous Bruce Lee statue overlooking the harbor.

Nara: The Greatest Buddha, Sacred Deer, a Shinto Shrine then on to Osaka!

April 4th: The Chiba family wanted me to have a taste, not only of the different hotels in Japan, but something of the history as well. Thus they planned, not only the tour of the Imperial Villa at Katsura (which I did know something about), but also tours of past and present capitals, famous landmarks and ceremonies of Japan (of which I knew nothing).

On Sunday morning, we took our time checking out of our hotel (with me buying yet more souvenirs in the hotel gift shop and taking time to enjoy the hotel's delicious cappuccino, while I gazed at its exuberant waterfall). I met up with the rest of the group right at checkout time, whereupon our bags were loaded into a limousine bus destined for another hotel, the drop-off point for our next and final tour - of Nara (Japan's first permanent capital, established in the year 710 at Heijo, the city now known as Nara).

In Nara, we were to visit the Todaiji Temple, home of the world's largest Buddha statue, located in Nara Park, where approximately 1200 deer wander around getting fed by tourists, and the Shinto shrine. Also, there are pagodas.

Kofukuji Temple in Nara: In the Nara period, the pagoda was the most important structure in the Kofukuji temple complex, as it held the relics (such as a bone or tooth) of the Buddha. There are two pagodas in the Kofukuji complex. They are located on either side of the site of the Great Southern Gate; the Three Storied Pagoda to the west and the Five Storied Pagoda to the east. Our tour did not stop here, but saw it as we drove past on our way to the Todaiji Temple, Nara Park, and the Kasuga Taisha (Shinto) shrine.

Todaiji Temple: Todaiji (Great Eastern Temple) is one of Japan's most famous temples and a landmark of Nara. Located in Nara Park, in central Nara, Todaiji was constructed in 752 as the head temple of all provincial Buddhist temples of Japan. Todaiji derives its name from its location east of Nara, which was the capital of Japan when it was built. Today, the temple serves as the Japanese headquarters of the Kegon school of Buddhism.

The monastery-temple Todaiji was founded by Emperor Shomu (r.724-749) when Nara was the capital of Japan. It was the head temple of the network of provincial monasteries throughout Japan. Immense in scale (significantly larger than the temple that stands today), Todaiji represented the culmination of imperial Buddhist architecture. Todaiji is a temple of the Kegon sect of Buddhism, which reveres the Buddha Vairocana (Birushana in Japanese) as the cosmic, central Buddha. The principal image of the temple is a bronze statue of Vairocana, colossal in scale.

According to legend, nearly 2,600,000 people helped construct the Buddha — but as that would amount to nearly the half of the people in Japan at the time, the figure is probably exaggerated. Nevertheless, by the time the Buddha was completed in 751, it had consumed most of Japan's bronze production for several years and left the country almost bankrupt. The Great Buddha was finally dedicated in 752 with great pomp and ceremony. The emperor and his family were present for the occasion, as were hundreds of local monks and ambassadors from China, India and more distant places.

The statue was dedicated by "opening his eyes" — an Indian priest stood on a specially built platform and painted in the eyes using a gigantic brush. The guests brought a dazzling assortment of gifts, many of which have been preserved in the Shoso-in treasury, along with the original paintbrush. The Great Buddha statue has been damaged, especially due to earthquakes, and recast several times. The current statue dates from 1692.

Pictures: (1) Pindola statue at Todaiji (legend has it that if you pray and touch the body part on the statue that hurts on your own body, then touch your own hurting body part, it will heal); (2-4) Cherry blossoms at Todaiji Temple (notice the classic white cherry blossoms and the pinker, "weeping" cherry blossoms); (5) Lighting incense in front of the temple.

Also of interest in the Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) are the rear support pillars, which have holes through the bottom. Popular belief has it that if one is successful in squeezing through one of these "healing pillars," he or she is guaranteed a place in Heaven. If true, that means there are only skinny people in Heaven!

Nara Park: For a city park, Nara Koen (Park) is enormous. The park covers 525 hectares (1297 acres) of woodland and is the largest municipal park in Japan. It became a park in 1888 after 2 years of work, until that time the area had deteriorated until it was little more than a wasteland. Today the park is designated as one of Japan's top scenic spots.

Located just east of Nara's modern commercial center, the park also includes the grounds of not only the Todaiji Temple, but also the Kasuga Taisha (Shinto) Shrine. Large numbers of "semi-wild" deer roam the parklands. These are not tame deer, but they are fed so often by so many tourists that wild isn't an appropriate description. The deer are usually associated with a sacred white deer - one of the legends of the Kasuga Taisha Shrine. They are of course protected animals. The park has wonderful flora including sakura (cherry blossoms), andromeda, and many other flowers. Spring is one of the best times to visit as the park is at its most colorful, however it is crowded! Birdwatching is also popular here.

Kasuga Taisha: Kasuga Taisha is Nara's most celebrated shrine. It was established at the same time as the capital and is dedicated to the deity responsible for the protection of the city. Kasuga Taisha was also the tutelary shrine of the Fujiwara, Japan's most powerful family clan during most of the Nara and Heian Periods.

Kasuga Taisha is famous for its lanterns, which have been donated by worshipers. Hundreds of bronze lanterns can be found hanging from the buildings, while as many stone lanterns line the approaches to the shrine. The lanterns are lit twice a year on the occasion of the Lantern Festivals in early February and mid August.

The shrine grounds also contain a Treasure House near the main complex which displays the shrine's relics. These include two sets of large ornate drums. Additionally, the Kasuga Primeval Forest, a sacred old-growth forest belonging to the shrine, covers the mountain behind Kasuga, however, it is closed to the public.

More Pictures from Nara Park and the Kasua Taisha Shrine:

Pictures: A strange-looking symbol of Nara Park (nice horns); Nara Park's "sacred" deer, and what I believe is a lot of barrels of saki at the Shrine (I may be wrong about this, though).

April 4th - Osaka: After the tour was done, we grabbed our luggage (which had been stored at the train station) and took the train to Osaka, which was Fumi-san's birthplace. She still had relatives there, and Mari hoped to be able to play her guitar for her uncle during our short stay.

Mari suggested that, for dinner, I might like to try a rotating sushi restaurant. That is, the restaurant doesn't rotate, but the sushi does! On some kind of conveyor belt, the plates parade in front of you so that you can check out which delicacies you would like to try. The food is placed on various size and color plates, based upon the price. When you are done eating, the clerk comes around with a scanner of some kind, and totals up the damage.

Sounds great, in theory. But here is where my "yankee" roots steered me wrong! I was thinking, "Sushi = California rolls, cucumber rolls, etc." In short, all the Americanized versions of sushi that I've come to know and love. Not so when you are getting the "real deal." Instead, the choice was, octopus, squid innards, and some other unmentionables that for me didn't look appetizing at all! That is why, despite the fact that the entire Chiba family is slim and I am known to have a healthy appetite, there is so few plates in front of me as opposed to everyone else.

After dinner, Kentaro suggested I get a new, smaller suitcase to take to Hong Kong (where I was headed in the morning), instead of lugging my huge blue suitcase around. (It had fallen to him to do the lugging while I was in Japan, and he wasn't going to be there in Hong Kong.) We picked out a cool Samsonite backpack style, the first I've ever carried, for my adventures in the morning. Then we said good night.

April 5th: Early the next morning, we loaded our bags in a limousine bus headed for the airport. Mari was going to take the train back home (she didn't get to play for her uncle in the very short time we were in Osaka, unfortunately), and she stood outside the bus and waved to us until it drove away. Kentaro and his parents accompanied me to the airport, and helped me figure things out so the check-in went smoothly. Then they bid me good-bye until Thursday, April 8th.